Bacchic Brotherhoods : at first glance, these 'wine brotherhoods' seem rather old-fashioned. In actual fact, they constitute a well oiled promotional medium. A good example being the "Jurade" of Saint-Emilion whose impressive procession celebrating its 60th birthday in the medieval streets of the ancient city last Sunday attracted many onlookers and photographers.
These brotherhoods or "confréries" form an integral part of the wine world. Most of the French wine producing areas possess their own brotherhood : Bordeaux, Champagne, Burgundy, Bergerac, Alsace and Gaillac amongst the most well known. The members, almost exclusively wine growers, are all dressed in long brightly coloured robes in keeping with ancient tradition, and together participate in numerous festive ceremonies to do with wine cultivation.
Professional brotherhoods first appeared in the Middle Ages when they were primarily associations grouping individuals of the same profession. The spirit of mutual aid amongst members was strengthened by worship of a chosen patron saint.
In 2008 however, far from the medieval world, one may wonder what role this kind of brotherhood can possibly play in today's market : quaint gadget, curious relic of a bygone age?
"Not at all! The wine brotherhood is, on the contrary, a modern communication tool, not used enough by wine regions," explains Jacques Bertrand, head of the Jurade of Saint-Emilion. The Jurade was originally created in the 12th century, then became obsolete until it was ressurected in 1948. All weekend jurade members celebrated 60 years of brotherhood in Saint-Emilion with great pomp and ceremony, to the delight of tourists and local visitors alike.
Jurade members, standing in the bright September sun in their red robes, were photographed by Japanese guests and filmed by South Corean television, anxious to immortalise an example of French "art de vivre", a concept apparently far from old hat...
A memorable pleasure : far from being old fashioned and outlandish, the wine brotherhood is in fact a well oiled promotional medium, particularly abroad where French wine remains a point of reference.
"The idea of the brotherhood is in keeping with wine's new status in modern society : far from being considered an essential commoditiy, it is a pleasure drink. A consumer who buys a bottle of wine, is looking for history, an anecdote or tradition, something to tell his or her friends," says a professional who admits he is planning to engrave the word "pleasure" above the barrels in his cellar...
Pleasure was certainly on the menu in Saint-Emilion on Sunday. After an apéritif served at the town hall, 600 guests (!) enjoyed a banquet financed by the Saint-Emilion wine syndicate whose budget for this public relations extravaganza approached 150,000 euros. Between partridge supreme, beef chateaubriand with wild mushrooms and vintage wines : Grand-Mayne 2001, Balestard-La-Tonnelle 2000, Beauséjour-Bécot 1996 and Figeac 1990, members of the Jurade talked at length about "their vineyard" to bankers from Brazil, Maltese importers, American businessmen and Parisian insurance brokers. All these visitors were eager to hear news about the coming harvest, the problems caused by the recent cancellation of the Saint-Emilion classification or the latest great growth prices....
Business cards are exchanged. A buyer from Leclerc chats to a potential supplier, useful commercial contacts and introductions are made by merchants, importers and producers, a journalist from the BBC can be seen writing down tasting notes on the wines served...
Because, behind all the festivities, business opportunity is never far away : a pleasant way of further expanding the ever increasing network of wine amateurs.
This is also how we sell wine in 2008.
César Compadre
doc@sudouest.com
S.O. 23/09/08
Translated by Maxine Colas.